Not sure if anyone mentioned but you may want to avoid a dozer with a 6 way blade, they'll take some abuse, but a dozer with push arms mounted on the track frames will take a lot more abuse, one of those with tilt, you can align the corner or end bit on the blade and usually get a bite.
I think its far better if all you have is a dozer is to push over the trees, if can be safely done, ROPS, brush cage on the operator station, using the leverage of the trunk, once you cut those trees short, you lose the leverage on the stump, pushing them over you get the stump, rememeber soils and conditions vary, but if possible, you can then sever the trunk, and push the logs off, being cognizant of not piling dirt, logs and brush together, you can still make use of the logs, push the brush, tops etc. to a pile.
I would prefer a small excavator or backhoe for stump removal, mostly likely take half the time, as with the dozer there is going to be a lot of backing up, aligning with the stump, severing of roots and lots of tight turning and repositioning, vs a hoe which will be stationary and you can dig all around each one and work them out of the ground. Matter of preference but I've done a fair amount of this full time way back when, we used to take the tail gates off the dump trucks to haul them off to the pile.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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