Spent decades in a tire and brake specialty shop. Rebuilding brake cylinders was SOP. I always honed with brake klean. Lubricants don't let the hone do it's job well enough and can leave contaminants. As others have said, check to see if the cups are the correct size as mismarked or mispackaging is not that uncommon. The brake pistons also need to be buffed off as they commonly get built up corrosion that will (most commonly) bind the cylinder. Brake assembly fluid is the only correct lubricant to reassemble the cylinders with (hard to come by these days I've found). Regular brake fluid (dot 4) is meant to be hydroscopic to hold moisture in suspension and will promote corrosion on the pistons. Silicon fluid (dot 5) will not hold moisture but withstand more heat. The silicon downside theory is that water droplets will settle in spots and rust through a line (I think that is nonsense myself). It is also not compatible with dot 4, (which is why it does not make a great assembly fluid), and requires complete system flushing to change over to do it correctly. The silicon upside is that if you spill it on your paint it won't hurt it. If the cylinder is aluminum you can't hone it. Of course "farm repairs" don't count.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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