The thermostat in the picture is a Honeywell T-87F with standard "heating only" sub base. If it were connected to central air it would have the selector switches for "cool-off-heat" along with a fan "on/auto" switch and a Q539A sub-base. Regardless, this is a 24volt control and cannot be directly connected to your 240 volt base board.
IF this thermostat in fact controls the base board heater(s) in question there will be a junction box or control box in the circuit that houses a 110v to 24v transformer for the power supply of the circuit and also a contactor(s) to energize the high voltage circuit to the baseboard heater. A contactor is nothing more than a heavy duty relay, most of the time with exposed contacts that are visible, especially in the lower amperage range required for a small wattage heater.
When you find that control box look closely at the contact surfaces of the contactor(s) with a good light and you will probably notice extreme pitting (rough surfaces) and a lot of blackened discoloration. Once they pit and become rough they can occasionally get stuck together and the springs responsible for opening them when the circuit is satified are not able to disconnect the contacts.
Usually when a 24vac low voltage thermostat is used to control baseboard, the baseboard thermostat is either bypassed (non-existant) or is turned to the warmest setting, which will be clockwise. Either of these cases, then allows the standard room t-stat to control the room temp by use of the contactors described above.
IF in fact you have a contactor stuck closed AND still have the baseboard thermostat (live voltage) installed in the baseboard, USUALLY the one on the baseboard can still be adjusted to the mid-range or lower setting to control the temperature in the room.
There are a lot of variables here to look and to help more specifically, we may need additional information as to what you found.
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