Do you have a 12 volt test light that you can use to see if you have power to the coil? Which battery post' + or - is grounded to the tractor frame? Do you have the ability to connect a 'jumper' wire( with alligator clips) from the hot battery post to the battery side of the coil? If so that will bypass your 'kill switch', then spin it over with the coil wire out of the dist. cap and 1/8 to 1/4" from the tractor frame. Do you see a spark?
Take the distributor cap off and drag a business card or some brown paper through the points when they are closed to remove some oxidation. Be aware of the order of the spark plug wires in the distributor cap, they have to be in a certain order. When you get the dist. cap off there is a 'rotor button' that will pull off and a protective cap under it that covers the points and condenser, it pulls off easily. Know that your test light will only show power to the coil when the points are open.
Try to be methodical and logical. Study John T's guide and identify all components before you start, to the extent possible. We have a Super A and it has a battery/coil ignition
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Plugs & Compression Testing - by Curtis Von Fange. The engine seems to run rough. In the exhaust you can hear an occasion 'poofing' sound like somethings not firing on all cylinders. Under loaded conditions the tractor seems to lack power and it belches black smoke out of the exhaust. For some reason it just doesn't want to start up without cranking and cranking the starter. All these conditions can be signals that your unit is in need of a tune up. Ok, so what is involved in a tune up? You say, swap plugs and file the points....now tha
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