I will answer the question as directly as possible. There is no reason to be nervous if things are correct. Rules: Make sure the real static timing (stopped) is set to TDC on #1. (a test light hooked to ground and the side distributor terminal, just lights up when the timing mark is on TDC. (no initial advance at all. (it is the correct setting for the tractor any way)
Have it out of gear and PTO out of gear and pulley out of gear.
Turn on the fuel at the tank (always off when not running!!!)
Set the choke (if at outside temp, not having been running)
Set the throttle at just above idle. Pull out the ignition switch. (very important)
Assure clear distance to people and animals, as well as buildings and machinery.
Insert the crank at 6 o"clock position and push it in to engage the crankshaft snout.
With your hands under the crank handle, and thumbs following your first fingers (not as you would a hammer) and your head and upper body a few inches from possible unexpected rotational contact, pull left and up on the handle briskly till you are at 12:00.
Do not go past 12:00.
If starts run to the choke to keep it running (usually just shut the choke off (push in)
If not running put the choke in just a little and crank again.
Some times it takes 4 or more cranks unless you already know how to set the controls to start on the first electric roll over. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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