Steven, when you apply power, does it only hum and attempt to rotate slowly or does it do absolutely nothing, no hummmm at all ??
First suspicion if it does nothing is a bad connection where you reconnected whatever wires you removed. May even have disturbed another connection while working in there.
If it hummmms and/or attempts to initiate rotation, I would suspect the start capacitor as the issue. However, everyone above is correct about the potential problem lying within the centrifugal start switch. In your endeavors, possibly blowing with air to clean it out, some debris could have become lodged between the contacts so the start winding and consequently the start capacitor is not in the circuit. If your wire connections are good, re-blow the area of the the end bell, it may dislodge particulate inadvertantly blown in.....
Double check the wire numbers, smudges etc make them hard to read.
....and, I've done it before....I've plugged into a cord or outlet that had no power..... Give us some more info...someone will get you taken care of I'm sure.
The easiest thing for you to replace is the capacitor, which will be less than twelve bucks or so from WWGrainger if you have no way to test one. If you have access to an analog (not digital) meter I can give you the proper test procedure for field testing. However, some cheap digital meters (less than $60.00) will have a capacitance test position on the dial.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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