The little time it takes to remove the grill and radiator support will pay big dividends. I would replace all the freeze plugs those are know to leak and a bear to replace when the engine is in the frame. I also would replace the crank sensor with a OEM while their, the valve cover gasket and the o-rings that may be at the oil filter adapter. Engine mounts also settle over time so new mounts would be considered.
Those start head bolts are not that bad to get at you may have to lower the rear of the trans to access them. You can use a regular hex head bolt when you go back.
With the grill and radiator out they slip right in :wink: Chrysler has a paper tab that fits over the crank sensor so as not to damage it wile installing it you may look into that though not necessary its just a precaution.
One more thing I do on most all of them is cut the frame to access the drain on the AC evaporator then add a hose so the condensed water runs out on the ground instead of down the frame Chanel. It ends the dreaded wet floors on the passages side. (if you have that issue if you keep it long enoufh you will) I know this applies to the 90's models not sure about a 01.
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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