Well sir at the end of the charging cycle measure the voltage across each battery. They will be different unless they are identical. Most of the time the difference is small enough that it doesn't really matter. A lot of charging periods are interrupted when one of the batteries only has like an 85% fill and the other maybe a 89% fill. The voltage will differ by a few tenths of a volt but no big deal. My automatic charger gives a full charge green light with 4 amperes of charge current remaining. It's a Schumacher like you'd buy at TSC. Obviously if you are 4 amperes from a full charge where the current drops to zero, you are going to have different levels on the batteries.
Oh and the "full" charge is an arbitrary number which depends on several variables including temperature, sulfate in the battery, charger controls to name a few. Around here my Full charge number is 12.75v year round. Easy to remember and works for me.
MarkB, I know this is obvious but if you charge them in parallel, you need to use a 6v charger and they are hard to find these days.
On the charger failing, if your batteries were fully discharged and your charger was not the new electronic controlled charge rate variable, you could have put too many amps through it and yes burned up a wire internally.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Generators - by Chris Pratt. As a companion to the articles on three-brush and two-brush generators, it seemed fitting that we should provide our readers with a description of how a generator works in lay terms. The difficulty with all those "theory of operation" texts is that they border on principles of electricity or physics and such. Since I know nothing of either, you will have to put up with looking at the common sense side of how generators work which means we "
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