I would definitely take the cover off and you'll have to pardon me as I always get the condenser and evaporator coils confused but I believe the outer most one is the evaporator (correction police please LOL !) and the inside, side of it, will accumulate a layer of dust that can become a thick felt and block the fins. Compressed air is ok to use but too much pressure you will bend the fins. Sometimes that layer is firm and air won't move it, so use a hose. Do be cognizant of the capacitor terminals, do not touch, and or any electronics if it has any like for the control panel, remote etc. I discovered this on mine last year and cleaned it but good, it took a little time but it gets complete air flow now.
I find with black mold the cause is obviously condensation in the cold air duct, most likely from being shut off after running in high humidity, I used to crank mine, (as my end of the house just gets hot from this time of year until september) then shut it off, room nice and cool all night. Bad move, the duct was covered with black mold, and its Styrofoam, hard to clean, I carefully sanitized it with a house hold cleaner and wiped it clean, upon inspection a few days ago, no mold. I run it thermostatically now and let the compressor kick on and off, set the fan on low and it does not build up condensation, trapping moisture and creating the mold problem, that duct needs air flow to dry properly in my opinion.
The condenser coil usually is easy to vacuum or blow out with low pressure compressed air, this year cleaning my window unit was easy, last year I literally took it all apart, its an '02 kenmore, 8000 btu, I really like it, I did have to replace the dual capacitor, local supply house had one real close in spec's and size it was 12 bucks, can only imagine what a service call would have cost for a cheap part like that. I've kept 'er running and cooling 10 years now, and I cannot say how long that coil looked like it does in the photo, just that I caught it in time and it seemed like common sense to look these over and clean annually.
Mine did not have a weep hole and I am not sure why, but disagree with it, just seems to want to rust out the housing and whats near it so I protected the coil and let the condensate out, the old units always had them, maybe I am wrong or indifferent, why would the evaporator coil need to have the bottom immersed in water. It said not to drill a hole but that seems to be due to puncturing the coil, so of course that makes sense, but at least it won't rust out, hold stagnant water and make a mess when you take it out in the fall.
This was really caked on there could have been years worth, til I finally decided its good measure to clean these, this would have had to shorten the compressors life if I understand correctly.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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