The truth is....not many Americans understand the Ferguson Hydraulic system! No offence meant! (but some of the replies here prove my point!) Your lift needs set, from the information you give here.... Hang your plough on the lift and check the top link spring. It should just be able to be turned by hand. If not, then it needs shortened by screwing the end yoke inwards against the spring. Next, set the hydraulic control lever stopper about 2 1/2 inches from the top of the quadrant and slacken the 4 bolts that hold the quadrant to the lift cover. These mounting holes are slotted. With the engine running, gently tap the quadrant back or forwards until the plough sits in neutral and tighten the bolts. This setting is so sensitive that even tightening the bolts can make a difference. When you have the bolts tightened, if you move the lever downwards slightly (over the stop) the plough should drop, but pulling it back to the stop should once again hold it in neutral, likewise moving the lever upwards should raise the plough and moving back to the stop should hold the plough in neutral again. This should make a big difference to your ploughing depth. Remember different soils will have different settings on the quadrant. Heavy ground will require the stopper to be set higher than light ground. This draft system was designed to give MORE traction the deeper you plough....but everything has a happy medium! Sam
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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