I have no idea what brand of baler that is, so this might not apply. On my New Holland 273 baler, the length of the "tail" on the knots could be determined by two things:
1. the "tongue" on the billhook holds the knot while the stripper pulls the knot over the ends of the twine and also pulls it off the billhook. The tension on the tongue is adjustable with a bolt/nut just to the right of the knotter frame where the billhook is located. I suppose that tension could be too low allowing the knot to slip back a bit before it is completed.
2. the stripper arm also holds the twine knife that cuts the new knot loose. I suppose that the knife could be too close to the billhook, thus resulting in a short piece of twine being available to form the knot.
New Holland has a tremendous youtube of a training movie that was made a long time ago to explain the operation of the knotter. If your baler has that style of knotter on it, it might be worth watching. Search New Holland knotter on youtube if you want to find it.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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