Re: John Deere 4230

Posted by JD Seller on June 24, 2013 at 11:08:06 from (208.126.196.144):

In Reply to: John Deere 4230 posted by Larry Metzgar on June 24, 2013 at 09:48:58:

It is a job you can do if you take your time. It is not complicated just can be time consuming. The kit number is RE206778 list $169.76. One kit per valve. They work nice, as you can hook under moderate pressure and then flip the lever to open the oil flow.

Removal:
1) Remove snap ring # 8. Save this snap ring you will need to put it back in to have the breakaway feature work. Before you reinstall it grind some ears on the ends of it. It sets back behind a different shaped collar on the new coupler barrel. If you do not grind a tab/ear on it they are just about impossible to get back out.
2) Remove plug #25. There are two side by side on the coupler just above the old barrels. I just take a small sharpened pin punch and knock a hole in the plug off center a little an pry them out.
3) Remove snap ring #24 and the spring under it. There is one for each barrel.
4) Pull the lever # 31 out the bottom of the barrel/coupler.
5) You now can pull the whole barrel out of the coupler.

Re-installation:
1)Remove the old orings and backup rings from the valve body. These are the ones that seal around the coupler barrel. The new kit comes with the orings and back up rings. There is also a new style lip seal that will fit in the same place. It is easier to install than the oring and backup ring but I have had them leak too many times right from the start. This requires you to completely remove the barrel and start over. So I don't use them any more. I just fight the oring/backup ring in like they where from the factory. If you have some picks they are not than hard to get back in.

2) Lube the new orings with a little dish soap.
3) Then slide the new ISO barrel into the valve housing. Look at the hole the cross pin goes through. It has orings on one side and a smooth bore on the other side. The smooth bore goes UP towards the knock out plug.
4)In the new kit rather than have a new lever with the pin welded on it you have a pin with orings, backup ring, spring and a snap ring. That slides through the coupler barrel and into the new handle and you put in a roll pin to hold the handle to the new cross pin. So slide the pin with the oring/backup down through the new ISO barrel. Make sure you have the barrel turn like I said or you will have the orings all on one side and the smooth barrels together. It will leak like a sieve like that. You want the oring on the pin to slide into the smooth part of the barrel on top and the pin to slide through the oring/back up ring on the bottom. You can put the handle and roll pin on now. DO NOT INSTALL THE knock out plug yet. Two reasons: You may have to take it back out if it leaks and the stop plate below may make you remove the handle to modify it. So just leave the plugs out for now. They are next to the last thing I install when doing the job. If everything is working correctly they just keep dirt out of the top of the barrels. They do not seal oil.
5)Look at the stop you have on the bottom of the coupler. This would be # 32 or # 30. If you have #30 you will need to buy the style like #32. It is a "C" shaped stamping. You have to modify the rear ears on the stop or the lever will not work or even if it does turn it will work hard. This stop has to be on the valve. It makes the arm/lever pull the coupler barrel in as you turn the lever. I have seen guys not put them on. Then they turn the lever with the coupler barrel out. This means the hose end is not locked in. You WILL take an oil bath if there is any pressure on the hose. So when installed it will pull the barrel in just like the old lever did.
6) Start the tractor and work the SCV lever. You should not have any leaks, if all went well.
7) Install the knock out plugs in the valve housing. Also install snap ring #8 at this time. I do it last as it is bear to get back out even with the ears ground on it.
8) Put the new dust covers on the old bolt.

Your DONE!!!!

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