I have the same 5 strands with 60' post spacing and 2 PVC battons going through the woods, brush, swamps, etc, where there is topography then I add more line posts as needed to get the wire spacing. I purposely bulldoze my fence rows as straight as possible because straight runs are easier to put up, easier to maintain, easier to check, etc. Just a little FYI the only reason the grass is short in that picture is that they were taken just a few days after snow melt.
One of the keys to high tensile is a good hot fence charger. My wires all insulated and seperated so that any wire can be electrified if needed and the remainders can be the ground in any combination that I want. This way in the spring when the grass is short I can have the bottom wire be + to keep the calves in, then as the grass and calves grow up I can take juice off the bottom wire to save myself lots of shorting headaches. Also having one or more of the wires be ground means that even if the earth is dry, snow covered, etc if you touch the + and the - your going to get knocked on your a$$.
I do spray most of my fence lines to keep the weeds and grass down off the wires so that I don't get any shorts (also weedwack under the fence along the road and behind the house for appearances). I also check the fences almost daily to make sure nothing has fallen on or damaged them. I keep cattle, horses, donkeys, and occasionally sheep in these fences.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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