I figured I would try to better explain what I am doing here.
1. Baling, I engage the clutch fully as I am starting in the windrow. I have found that there is a point where the pickup does not want to accept more hay while it is trying to start the bale and hay will pack up at the pickup. Just before that happens, I fully disengage the clutch and allow the tractor roll stop or slow. In some cases, I get to friggin back up which spreads hay backwards but seems to work most of the time. I then come back up and slip the clutch to slow speed for about 2-3sec until I can see the pickup sucking hay in. Then clutch is fully engaged until monitor says bale is ready. push clutch to stop, restart process.
2. Raking. 3rd/hi is about 10mph at the rpms I run which is maybe 1500. It is a ROUGH friggin ride but rake works better. I have rpms at maybe just over idle, fully engage clutch, throttle up to desired speed. At headlands, reduce rpm to idle. As starting the turn, completely disengage clutch and allow tractor to slow in the turn. Bring rpms up a touch and slip clutch for about 2-4sec while finishing turn. Fully engage clutch near idle, add throttle and repeat.
3. moving bales, I operate similarly and always reduce throttle to reduce speed differential between engine and trans. I try to roll into stuff with clutch full disengaged when possible. When loading a truck, I approach by reducing rpm a bit, line up, then completely disengage clutch while I lift loader to position. I then slip clutch to approach and disengage and let tractor roll up. Only then do I slip for 2-4sec to get final position until I apply brakes, disengage clutch, set bale, and reverse.
In all circumstances, I try to never slip the clutch at full operating rpm other than baling because the PTO needs it. I also have to have "some" engine speed for the loader due to loader speeds.
I own CNC machines and live in the school of "use it hard, but don't abuse it". I cannot stand watching CNC owners that run rapid speeds (positioning) at 50% to "save the machine". The math does not work out. Lose 20K in productivity to save 4K in bearings that will STILL fail eventually. If you have a 1000lb slug of steel on the table, yeah, slow up. 30lbs of Al, if the machine cannot take it, it don't belong in my shop!
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Today's Featured Article - Timing Your Magneto Ignition Tractor - by Chris Pratt. If you have done major engine work or restored your tractor, chances are you removed the magneto and spark plug wires and eventually reached the point where you had to put it all back together and make it run. On our first cosmetic restoration, not having a manual, we carefully marked the wires, taped the magneto in the position it came off, and were careful not to turn the engine over while we had these components off. We thought we could get by with this since the engine ran perfectly and would not need any internal work. After the cleanup and painting was done, we began reassembly and finally came to t
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