Why change the engines???? You then have two orphan tractors.
The wide front end and the Roll bar could both be changed in less than a half a day.
The gas tractor is an cobbled up tractor anyway. The fenders are IH fenders and the Roll bar top is cobbled on too. The correct roll bar top would have been steel. The home made battery box and all. I would be more afraid of the gas tractor than the diesel one. The Diesel tractor has been fooled with less. Guys that cobble things usually mess with stuff inside too.
I would switch the front ends and paint the diesel. The roll bar would be a minus as it is not correct. They also are not great on Northern tractors. A fifty degree day on a tractor with a top will make you hunt up a coat. Then after you hit a few more trees there will be more than the muffler bent.
I also wold not trust the roll bar for roll over protection. Something looks off on it. I wonder if it is off a different brand tractor too. It is not tall enought to be the correct one for a JD 3020.
Sell the gas tractor after you switch the front ends and buy the factory roll bar from JD. They have a program that sells them at cost. You then would know you have one that will protect you in a roll over.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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