No, they are all like that. They all just drop in. You don't have to do anything. The reason those things go bad is that there is a snap ring and shims to tighten the wheel bearings. Lots of guys running on asphalt or hard packed stone all day will really put a bruising on them, and never re-shim the hubs. Then it wears them out.
Don't be alarmed. When you get the bearings shimmed correctly, there is no worries.
I've done a whole bunch of those. The other big thing with those machines is that the chain cases bend where the rear hubs attach and then the hubs ride crooked and it wears out the chains. Torches and a small ram on a port-a-power and about 6 hours takes care of that.
It's also a good idea to slather the bottoms of the studs with grease before you slide the hub on. That's a big rust problem area on those machines when they get older.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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