I have a 648 which is essentially the same baler, and have struggled over the years to get the twine issues down to a minimum. Here's what I've learned:
1) Make sure the tension is properly set coming out of the roll through the first tension guide. Even a miniscule difference in tension can throw the operation off.
2) Make sure your knives are sharp and cut well, and that the cutter arm (left side) is greased well. It is spring-tensioned and this can be adjusted too, in case its not springing closed tight enough to cut completely.
3) Make sure you have enough hay feeding the chamber when the twine arms drop to the center. Either bigger/fluffier rows, or going faster, will help grab what twine is hanging.
Also, if the twine cutters do their job they will pinch and hold the twine in place while the tubes retract, giving you even more twine to be caught by the incoming hay. If it simply cuts the twine and doesn't hold, you might only have 2-4 inches of twine hanging out. Although this isn't necessary.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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