I was not too clear on where I checked what. I did check the unregulated output of the permanent magnet alternator at the wires coming out of the alternator, with them disconnected from rest of system. That is where I got 13.5-14 volts on each wire to ground. I used both a DMM and an older analog needle style meter for these readings.
Where I got the 2 volts was when I disconnected the red output wire of the regulator and checked it to ground with the alternator all connected back up. Engine running, of course. That is how I figured the regulator was bad. All wiring between alternator and regulator was checked and verified okay also.
With red regulator wire connected, I get battery voltage, of course. With engine running, a battery tester/voltmeter never moves from battery voltage, when connected across battery terminals.
If this alternator will only put out 14 volts maximum unregulated would say a 25amp 50 volt full wave bridge rectifier work? Would it handle the current? All it is doing is keeping the battery up, the lights are hardly ever used.
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Today's Featured Article - Usin Your Implements: Bucket Loader - by Curtis Von Fange. Introduction: Dad was raised during the depression years of the thirties. As a kid he worked part time on a farm in Kansas doing many of the manual chores. Some of the more successful farmers of that day had a new time saving device called a tractor. It increased the farm productivity and, in general, made life easier because more work could be done with this 'mechanical beast'. My dad dreamed that some day he would have his own tractor with every implement he could get. When he rea
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