You will need to remove the pulley and to get at that, you need to move the bolster/pedestal. Notice I said move not remove. After removing the radiator, remove two of the, I believe six bolts, and thread long bolts or threaded rod in their place. This will probably work best with the two top ones. Then, after removing the other four bolts, with the engine supported under the oil pan, you will be able to carefully roll the front away from the motor and the rods will hold it in position. Be sure to get a new front crankshaft seal, because it rides on the pulley, and put a new O-ring on the governor shaft. If the seal has worn a groove in the pulley you will want to put a speedy sleeve over it. Before starting all this check to be sure that the shaft is not just bound up by moving the arm back and forth. The biggest part of the job is sheet metal removal.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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