Open all three injector lines at the injectors. Then get a big can of ether and put the blow to her. Crank it until it will run on ether and keep giving it sufficient blasts to keep it running while someone else stomps on the throttle... see if the valve will free. Otherwise... probably best to remove the pump. You need to remove the top cover of the pump to get at the metering valve. When you do that you want to note carefully where the springs are connected on the center tombstone and levers. Also be carefull of the shutoff bar along the top of the pump. The metering valve is in the center of the pump and will lift out... clean it carefully and see what happens. Technically you don't need to remove the pump from the engine to do this... so if you don't remove it... get the area around the pump well cleaned off so you don't get more dirt in the pump....
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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