I don't think the OP is asking about water "conditioning", just particulate filtering which I think is WELL warranted for drip. I am a professional in golf course and residential irrigation. ANYTHING with low GPM emitters requires filtering. Use the LARGEST filter that is practical for you. One thing we do that is cocky azz is we use an irrigation valve on the purge side of a sand trap and run it on a timer system. We then purge once/day for 1min. You will never clean the thing if you do that. However, you need power and electrical skills for that.
I am sure I could design something that runs on a specialty timer from your pump power too. Single shot delay on break timer tied in with pump so it will run for 30sec every time pump turns on.
The way to get water off a pond is to NOT have your suction set at the bottom EVER. We use a T with riser where we enter the pond with 4" pipe at the bottom, come up 2-3ft, then a long T section of saw cut perf used for water well casing. Do NOT restrict it more than that. When that sucker plugs, your pump will die.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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