That is a deep subject but basically debris and water are what kill the oil and it can usually be reconditioned. Water WILL damage stuff. Localized heating to over 212*F will cause cavitation of the water in some cases (depends on pressures).
there is also an additive package in oils that adds lubricity and rubber protection. Bad fluid can ruin seals and cause leaks everywhere.
The by product of over heated multi viscosity modifiers is sludge but usually it will just break down as hydro oil and become nothing but the base oil. So if you use 15-40, you will end up with straight 15W oil.
HOWEVER - lab testing is become more and more the standard as we run low on oils. A lab can check for additives, contaminates, and recommend ways to refurb the oil good as new. All big mining companies are doing this today.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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