Hook the battery across the top + on left, - on right or - on left and + on right, doesn't matter.
Strap all your battery operated things across the two lines paying attention to + when required....coil.....and whatever else. The starter housing needs a wire for this illustration to complete that circuit.....obviously it will be the frame of the tractor when you get down to that.
Lights and all don't matter.
Now you have an entity, just like your cell phone. Fully intact, fully functional. If everything runs off the ignition switch being on, put an ignition switch on either line just below the battery. If you have a push button for the starter, it can be shown above the ignition switch with one of the actual starter solenoid high current leads going straight to the battery line above any switch, the other straight to the starter terminal. If you have the Ford tranny safety switch then it goes between the starter solenoid power (small terminal) and the - line; other side to starter switch which goes to the + line.
Now, you can tie either of those two wires to the tractor frame. If you tie the + it's called positive ground, - is negative. Simple as that.
The tractor frame acts as one of the two wires depending upon which way you are wired. So, if you are positive ground, replace the positive wire with the tractor frame; neg gnd the - wire.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
... [Read Article]
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