Quote: "The converter on the logic board that converts from 110 to down to 24 volts is what keeps blowing."
You sound capable so you may be able to consider this point: Is the voltage 'converter' an iron-chunk transformer or a zener diode?
If transformer, look for a wiring fault in the circuit feeding the opener---bad ground, bad neutral. Unlikely but possible is bad incoming voltage from grid--bad breaker, bad bus bar connection in panel. I had something similar and turned out the neutral was nonexistent and I had been running off the earth ground to complete the circuit. Oops.
If 'solid state' "converter" look for poor heat sinking. Look for chunk of aluminum under the device. May not be properly heat sinked or need conductive heat sink grease-like material. In short, you could be experiencing overheat failures.
Do failures coincide with summer high temps in garage? Might experiment by placing small 'trucker fan' near opener and seeing if makes a difference over time.
Do failures seem more or less evident when using radio control compared to wall button? Is wall button hard-wired or also radio type?
Call up maker and be persistent until you get to talk with one of their engineering staff instead of TechRep reading from manuscript. Squeaky wheel and all that. Could be design flaw. Keep asking questions. Ask for replacements of entire unit direct from factory.
Please post back your experiences so we may all learn.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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