I use WW 10-30 full syn. I change oil once per year because the oil doesn't get dirty like paraffin oils do due to oil breakdown with them.
I removed the mickey mouse drain plug and plumbed an extension out of 1/8" or 1/4" depending, steel pipe to a convenient place to put a drain pan and capped it off. I put a piece of cardboard with some paper towels under the oil filter to catch that slobber. Now the annual oil change is a no brainer.
I have half a dozen mowers on the place. 2 are ZT with fabricated steel decks. Others are stamped steel. One is a JD. They all have several hundred hours or so on the clock.
None of the decks have shown to be a problem, nor any wear, give some paint worn off but they all have that, nor belts wearing out either. Only thing I changed over the years on any of them was an idler pulley on the JD. Even the plastic gauge wheels are still OEM. Figured they would wear out right off but not so.
I clean out/replace the air filters at the time of the oil change. Spark plugs last forever and there are no points to worry with now-a-days.
Enjoy your "gift" and don't worry about it. Do what I said and the PIA oil change will cease to be a PIA.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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