First you need to clean the threads and seat very well in the head. Next install the bulb and screw the jam fitting into the head. Now tighten with a flare nut wrench. Do not use a regular wrench you will round off the brass nut corners. You may have to take off the battery box to get good access. A flare nut crow's foot works but is a big expense for one job when you can just remove the battery box.
Now for the bad news......... Many have complained they can not get the bulb tight enough to stop leaks even following the above instructions. For some it was they got the wrong gauge (bulb length) and it was hitting inside the head before it got tight. For some they could get it tight but not stop the small leak. Was this caused from pitting in the head seat; wrong angle cut on the aftermarket gauge bulb? I really do not know as I have never had this problem. As a cure some have reported using a o-ring; Teflon tape; or a nylon washer to compensate for differences in the bulb seat and the head seat.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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