It is very easy to be fooled when trying to diagnose a draw. Most modern cars will make that spark, and will draw anywhere from a few tenths to a full couple amps, for up to 20 minutes in some cases ! This is powering up modules and so forth, which then are supposed to go asleep and settle into a milli-amp draw. The only way I have found to be accurate in this, is to use a sensitive amp meter that allows current to flow, at least 10 amps minimum. You cant rely on a test light or the fact that it sparks to really tell you whats going on. Fluke has a good meter for this. If you exceed that 10 amps by turning on the lights or key, the fuse in the meter blows. Hook it up between the battery post and cable end, then walk away for 1/2 hour or so and come back and observe the meter reading. Has to be very low draw, as in milli-amps. A .1 or .2 amp reading will bring a good battery down in a day or two.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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