We used a 12" auger for drilling our holes 4ft down and set the post on a 12"diameter x 8" thick pad.The way I explained it to my customers was imagine pushing a pencil down in plain dirt vs. pushing the pencil down in the dirt resting on a solid piece of CURED concrete foundation. The poles/columns are bearing the weight of the entire building. If grade was off we used longer poles to make sure we had 4ft in the ground. We also used hot-dipped galvanized nails to attach two cca 2x6x24" scabs on each side of the pole base to act as a small barb and give more bearing area for the post base to rest on the pad. (1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 1-1/2" = 8-1/2" vs 4-1/2" you get with 3 -2x6's nailed together to make a column.) Back filled and TAMPED IN with dirt/clay only. Can't recall in the 30+ years I was in the lumber/building business I ever saw dry 2 bag mix cement/sand/rock utilized in a foundation, road, sidewalk or for anything other than for a sales gimmick by a pole barn salesmen. 4-6 bag cement-sand-rock-water mixed in proper proportion=concrete. Ground Contact not good enough - its the amount of treatment in the wood that counts. .60 lb/per cu ft of wood treatment is required for below grade. Ground contact for is for consumer grade decks etc. and generally is only .40 or less retention. Have seen many penta and .40 cca failures at ground contact - to date no .60 or higher. Pole barn construction conversation is almost in the same category as religion, politics or I still can't believe the Cards lost the World Series!
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: Fordson Major - by Anthony West. George bought his Fordson Major from a an implement sale about 18 years ago for £200.00 (UK). There is no known history regarding its origins or what service it had done, but the following work was undertaken alone to bring it up to show standard. From the engine number, it was found that this Major was produced late 1946. It was almost complete but had various parts that would definitely need replacing.
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