A cold engine turns over slower. Battery only has half its power at 0 degrees F. Slower engine means the electrical system drops to 9 volts or less (if a 12 volt system) or drops so 4.5 volts or less (if a 6 volt system). That produces less maximum spark energy IF a battery-coil system. Possibly NO spark IF a breakerless/electronic conversion. If a magneto systems and the impulse coupler works - the cranking speed has no effect. If the impulse does not work - it has a huge effect.
A slower cranking engine also results in less compression and more chances for small leaks to seep past piston rings and engine valves.
A cold engine with a carburetor has trouble with atomized fuel sticking to the cold walls of the intake manifold and not making it all the way to the combustion chamber.
A cold gas engine with a properly working carb and choke winds up with an over-rich fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. That requires more voltage to fire. Sometimes 30,000 volts instead of 10- 15,000 volts. If the ignition is not perfect -it may not be up to the job.
A diesel? Since a diesel relies on compression to make enough heat for self-ignition - it's pretty easy to see why cold starting can be a huge problem. That why many have electric aux heaters like glow plugs or grid-heaters or intake-manifold heaters.
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Today's Featured Article - Oil Bath Air Filters - by Chris Pratt. Some of us grew up thinking that an air filter was a paper thing that allowed air to pass while trapping dirt particles of a particles of a certain size. What a surprise to open up your first old tractor's air filter case and find a can that appears to be filled with the scrap metal swept from around a machine shop metal lathe. To top that off, you have a cup with oil in it ("why would you want to lubricate your carburetor?"). On closer examination (and some reading in a AC D-14 service manual), I found out that this is a pretty ingenious method of cleaning the air in the tractor's intake tract.
... [Read Article]
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