Basically dealt with three different cars with timing belts, Some first generation Escorts, a Mustang SVO (2.3 turbo) and a 91 Honda Accord. I bought my Escort by trading my equity away in a Bronco II (in the Air Force and headed overseas without a car), the Escort came to me at 93,000 miles, I was guaranteed by the dealer the timing belt had just been done, unfortunately he didn't guarantee the head wasn't cracked, I needed it to last about 6 weeks and it did. When I came back to the world and got a better car (the Mustang) I beached the Escort at the Farm, my brother resurrected it and drove it a year later because he didn't change the cam belt on his Escort and bent 3 valves. The Mustang ate one cam belt while I drove it, but it isn't an interference engine so no foul. We bought the Honda new in December of '90 it had a cambelt at 100,000 miles, again at 200,000 miles and at 243,000 miles (the water pump finally died) on the last one even though it would start and run I towed it to the shop. I had the belt done while they were in there to do the water pump. I figured it'd be the last timing belt in the Honda, that was 6 years ago and it's still going strong. If It's still around at 300,000 miles I might spring for a new belt. If it's interference engine and got a rubber belt changing them is normal maintenance just like changing oil, do it and you'll be okay, don't do it and you're rolling the dice on every trip you take.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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