Depending on the specific tractor and whether it has a cab, it might be tail heavy and tip backwards. So when you block up the back section, block it near the bell housing and make another support crib under the back end of the hitch bar (not the 3 pt). As you unbolt the front and back, there is a weight shift and usually the rear end rises (from the air in tires). This rise may be 1/2" and that can be enough to set the blocking loose. The front end is quite controllable because much weight is on the front tires, but the engine block puts enough weight towards the bell housing that it can be predicted what it will do. I do not know where you have to split your MF, but I have split a 135 Hp Ford 9000 with a lot of ballast weights (rear wheel area) with a heavy Hiniker 1300 series cab. And that required a double split, once at the bell housing, and the second split between tranny and rear end. The rear one is the most unpredictable for weight shift. I think it was a hydraulic pump problem that required the rear split. I have split other similar size tractors on a dirt floor by using 2x10 planks for the splitting stand w/wheels to roll on and moving the engine forward. I have no idea about the size and weight of your Massey. Even though you might be using hydraulic jack(s) to do the lifting, set blocks because most jacks do sag over time. You do not want to come out the next morning and find half of the tractor laying flat on the ground (or maybe even worse!).
Step back every once in a while and look at the splitting with a critical eye. Ask yourself "where is the weight now?", and "how can I support it?". Make the supports be as directly under the weight as possible. Do not set them far back and plan on a cantilever effect to do the supporting.
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