Posted by Paul on December 05, 2013 at 04:01:50 from (66.60.223.232):
In Reply to: Diesel gelling posted by Tom vertiz on December 04, 2013 at 20:29:32:
It is possible the off road fuel/ heating fuel which is dyed red has a higher sulphur content. Depends on your state laws these days on sulphur levels, most places its all the same any more, but the possibility is there.
Otherwise #2 has more btu per gallon, lubricates the engine better. It starts jelling at 30 degrees or so, typically not a problem until below 20 degrees, by 10 degrees most diesel engines will want to jell up. There is a waxy substance in the fuel that turns solid at those temps, colder it is the bigger the waxy bits get so the exact temp depends on your engine, new engines have tighter filters.... I have a tractor with the engine heater below the fuel filter, if you plug it in and the coolant is warm you can run straight #2 at 10 below, it keeps the fuel and the filter warm enough.....
#1 fuel doesn't wax until about minus 60 degrees. It costs more, has less btu, and can heat an engine in warm temps. So fuel stations blend as little as possible to anticipate what is needed for the upcoming weather. You are better off with less #1, but need enough to not jell. It is a balancing act as to how much to blend. If you order bulk fuel, you can specify what you want, 100% of 2, 1, or what blend you want. 50-50 is good for any weather we get here, -30 in the extreme. Colder places might need more #1....
The red dye is added to any diesel fuel or heating fuel that is not taxed for on road use. It really doesn't have any bearing on what grade fuel it is, the red is only a dye and only a tax issue, not a fuel grade or type issue.
With the rapid temp fall up here in MN over yesterday and into today, we will see many semis on the side of the road, catches them by surprise every year, both locals and those from the south.
One can run straight number 2 fuel all winter here in an older tractor if you add enough Power Service, Houges, or other anti-gel treatment. These also work in newer tighter engines but I have no idea if as well. These additives keep the wax dissolved, but can be a tad hard on plastic/rubber bits, tight pumps. Everything is a trade off isn't it?
Many places run biodiesel, 2-5%, and the bio part will gel up just a tad quicker so you need to be treating or blending perhaps 5 degrees sooner than in the old days.
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