I have to agree with B-maniac. I would go with wet paint rather than powder if I had any doubts about the ability of the shop doing the work. My day job is managing a powder line. Done by the numbers powder is hard to beat, but not done right it is worse then latex put on with a brush over steel. Pretreatment is everything. If pretreatment is not done right it will fail rather quickly and is a huge pain to rework later. Iron or zinc phosphate conversion is pretty good pretreatment as long as it is done right and the system and operator putting it on are both up to par. If I were going to do a job like this I would have the rims blasted absolutely clean and grind out any pits on the inside before the iron or zinc pretreatment. I would then apply a zinc based powder primer and only cure it to a gelled state and then pull them out of the oven and let them cool. After they cool I would apply a good TGIC or polyurethane powder. No epoxy powders. Epoxy powders have very poor UV stability and will chalk up within a year or less when left outside. Then there is the cure. Most powders claim 10 to 15 minutes at 400f. That is where many powder shops make the fatal mistake. Fact is the cure time starts when the base metal reaches the recommended cure temp not when the oven hits the cure temp. The heavier the material the longer it has to stay in the oven to bring up the temp of the base material. Something like a heavy wheel may need to stay in the oven 35 minutes at least for a powder that only needs 10 minutes at 400. If you want to get a powder shop to stumble over words ask them what their cure schedule is for your job. They may say our oven is fast and 10 to 15 minutes is it. I don't care how fast an oven recovers or heats back up after a batch is started you can't change how fast metal heats up. Under cured powder will fail. It is just a matter of time. Done right it is a great finish. Done wrong it is worse than the cheapest rattle can you can find.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulic Basics - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In the last entry to this series we gave a brief overview of hydraulic system theory, its basic components and how it works. Now lets take a look at some general maintenance tips that will keep our system operating to its fullest potential. The two biggest enemies to a hydraulic system are dirt and water. Dirt can score the insides of cylinders, spool valves and pumps. Wate
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