Posted by Texasmark1 on December 10, 2013 at 07:11:40 from (184.20.224.84):
In Reply to: Re: Battery question posted by buickanddeere on December 08, 2013 at 13:48:48:
That's what I did on my JD 4230. Mother deere put one 6v battery on the right side of the tractor and tied the - lead to the engine block on that side for ground.
Then, with a second 0 gauge wire she ran a wire from that batteries + across the tractor, under the cab, to another 6v battery adjacent to the starter and tied to the - terminal.
Then the + side to the starter solenoid. Really a nice, well engineered SCREW UP. Starting current which runs somewhere around 200 amperes, from a 12v circuit, requiring at least 10v ACROSS the starter means that you can only have 2v/200 amps or 0.01 ohm of resistance in the path with fully charged batteries.
So I have what I call a small wire (0), running completely across the tractor, plus has to go through the tractor engine and 2 bolts to get to the starter - plus the internal resistance of 2 batteries and the whole shebang can only be 0.01 ohm. No wonder my diesel was hard to start in the winter down here in Texas.
When I got tired of that I went to the OTR truck dealer and bought 2 size 31 HD 925 cca sealed batteries. While there I had 00 cables made up for my conversion.
I installed a 12v battery in each position. Then I ran 2 ea 00 wires from the + and - terminals of the right side battery to the same terminals of the left side battery. Now I have 2 batteries in parallel......rather than the internal resistance in the circuit being doubled by having 2 batteries in series, it is now halved. In addition to that I have 2 lower resistance cables interconnecting the batteries.
Then from the left battery I used 12" 00 sized jupers to connect the + to the starter solenoid, and the - to the bolt that attached the starter to the engine.
Don't need to tell you the difference. On the coldest of days It took about 15 seconds for that 404 (as I recall) cu in to light off.
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