I have seen many reasons why there is no heat in a cab. You have suggested a main theme..heater core...Drain some of your system and save the coolant,then disconnect both hoses,rig up a connector and hook a garden hose up..flush the core,then switch hoses and flush it the other way,then hook it up. The winter front may be a problem and your thermostat might be the problem,but I'll guarantee one of those three senarios...and theres one more...air in the heater core,I've encountered that as well.Some vehicles have a bleeder in the hose from the water pump and its simple to open and wait until coolant is coming out. You can buy a little valve and install it with two hose clamps into your heater hose and have a bleeder. If I had to bet five bucks on what it is I would say Thermostat....but its easier to check for air in the heater core than pulling out a thermostat when you are not sure. The absence of a winter front shouldn't be a real big factor here if the thermostat is doing its job..it shouldn't open until 180*,you can put a 190* in..sound like an afternoon in the shop checking out these ideas(mine and other posters) The shop I worked in had these issues come in all the time..plugged core needs flushing,air in system,thermostat gone wild...Good luck and let us know how you make out!
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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