It is still possible to plumb your 135 with remotes even it has no auxillary pump. But you do need a diverter valve in place of the transfer plate on top of the lift cover. To use both the lift and hydralic top link with out a lot of switching at the diverter, take the feed supply from the diverter to the input side of the spool/remote block, take a return to the small allen keyed bung on the left side of the lift cover, just in front of the cross-shaft. Then plumb your single acting remote into the bung on the right side, just below the diverter valve and take your spare valves to quick attach couplers at the rear of the tractor. To use, simply turn your diverter to the remotes and put the tractor in constant pumping and leave it there. To operate the 3 point use the single acting spool, use the other spools as normal. I like to use a quick attach on the line from the valve to the right side of the lift cover. That way it can be used if you need to operate a single acting ram or if you need to plough and use the draft control, it can be disconnected and the diverter switched back to operate the 3 point as normal. I have fitted this system to many 100 series tractors and it works! Sam
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Today's Featured Article - Restoration Story: 1964 JD 2010 Dsl - Part 2 - by Jim Nielsen. Despite having to disassemble the majority of my John Deere 2010's diesel engine, I was still hopeful I could leave the engine-complete with crankshaft and camshaft-in the tractor. This would make the whole engine rebuild job much easier-and much less expensive! I soon found however, that the #4 conrod bearing had disintegrated, taking with it chunks of the crankshaft journal. As a resul
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