I doubt if it will run on 110 voltage but one leg maybe leaking voltage.
Diagnostics can be hard but first make sure the gage is working.(only about $5 and they don't last). If there is a boiler drain for the tank open it and see what you have for pressure while watching the gage. If water is blasting out of the drain with out radically tapering off and pressure cycles up and down your problem is on the house side of the tank and you need to check for blockage.
If pressure takes a long time to recycle its a well side problem. If its well side shut off breaker and lift pump from pit-less adaptor and hold adaptor out side of well.(tie it off and don't kink the line)turn on breaker and let pump run for a few minutes. If flow tapers off and surges the well isn't producing. If the flow is weak from the start pull the pump and check for nicks or chaffs on the wires that may bleed off voltage and repair with heat shrinks.
If you still haven't diagnosed the problem pull the pump tomorrow and take it to a distributer and have it tested. (I normally bypass this step because repairing an old pump usually cost more than a replacement). If you need to replace it avoid the big box store no name brands, they don't save you much and are notoriously unreliable.
All of this is based on the assumption you have a modern 2 wire with ground system.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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