The major cab interior parts will all interchange from a late 40 to 50 series cab. It is the early 30 series that have the narrow seat well that have the biggest issues.
You may have to fit the small rear lower corner pieces that are right behind the console on the right and the left lower rear corner.( K&M # 42458 and #42457. You can look on K&Ms site and see the differences. They are not much different) The cabs are just a little different in the rear taper at the back lower corners. I usually just take a utility knife and cut them to fit and use the cut off pieces to fill in the spots. You can buy the material in balk and make your own rear corner pieces. I have done that on ones that wanted a SHOW quality job. You really have to look to see the difference in the corners.
You can also buy the one piece dash cowling cover like the 50 series use (50 series is padded) and replace the two piece black metal cowling covers that the 40 series had. I usually do this as I think it makes the cab a little quieter. You don't get as much hydraulic noise out of the steering valve.
I have been using K&M kits for the last few years with good results. They seem to be as good as the JD kits and cheaper.
Here are the K&M numbers:
50 series 2wd Brown
Belt line kit(lower cab) #4062 $170.97
Corner Post kit #4065 $59.97
Cowling (dash cover) #4064 $150.97
Headliner 3 piece #4510 $258.97
This will get you all of the padding in brown.
Now there are some other things to completely change the interior color:
Speaker covers, The plastic Fender cover right inside the door way, the left fender cover right inside the small door.
These are black if your tractor has all of them. Some do not have the inter fender covers. I have had them painted with special paint that is made for plastic panels. If your old ones are cracked then just buy them new for a 50 series from JD.
The seat cushions are different color too. These you just have to change. The slip on seat covers look like crap so do not waste your money on them.
IF you replace the entire interior and all the other covers you will have right at a $1000 in parts with no labor.
Getting the old interior out is the hardest part. Also take the seat out. You will need the room. I usually scrap all of the old off I can with a steel scrapper. Then I use a wire brush in a die grinder to get the rest off.
Watch how the old interior was fitted. You will want to lap the new just like the old. Dry fit it an then glue it in. I usually have someone help me. I hold the piece in place. Then fold half of it out and spray the adhesive on that half and glue it. Then fold the other half out and glue it. When laying the second part back in, work it flat from the first side. Smoothing it out as you go. You will find it is about impossible to adjust it once it is stuck.
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Today's Featured Article - Listening to Your Tractor - by Curtis Von Fange. Years ago there was a TV show about a talking car. Unless you are from another planet, physically or otherwise, I don’t think our internal combustion buddies will talk and tell us their problems. But, on the other hand, there is a secret language that our mechanical companions readily do speak. It is an interesting form of communication that involves all the senses of the listener. In this series we are going to investigate and learn the basic rudimentary skills of understanding this lingo.
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