My experience at a John Deere dealership. We'd have a line of brand new tractors parked in the lot. Same model and same model year. One would start right up at 40 degrees F with almost no smoke or skipping. The one next to it wouldn't even try without a block heater or ether. And when it DID start it would skip and smoke something awful. This became most prominent when we were selling 40 series ag tractors (i.e. 2040, 2940,) and C series crawlers (350C, 450C, etc.).
We had one customer who was trading in his 4020 he'd bought new in 1964 and a 350 crawler he'd bought new in 1967. Both his older machines would start down to 25 degrees F with no block heater or ether. He tried out a new 2940 and refused to buy because it smoked so bad when started cold. It did that at 50 degrees F!
So, Deere asked the same question you did. Things blamed included valve-seat recession too deep, charge pressure too low in injection pump, ignition/injection timing too retarded, piston standout too low, engine cranking speed too low, fuel delivery too low, etc. Deere finally concluded that the overall problem was sloppy engine assembly techniques with too wide "plus" and "minuses" with the machining tolerances. When the 50 series ag tractors came out, along with the D series crawlers - they started great. Most down to 25 degrees F.
I had the opportunity to take a brand new 350C all apart (that started poorly) next to a brand new 350D (that started great). The C had an engine built in Dubuque. The D had an engine built in Saran, France. The only mechanical difference we found between the two that made all the difference was the piston-top standout.
I'm talking new tractors. Obviously, when an old tractor is hard starting - you need to ascertain if it EVER started well.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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