Ice and snow both have best traction when below Zero F. At 20F to freezing they both are near liquid at the tire interface (contact patch) In packed snow soft compounds with lots of sipes are best (all season) in new snow not packed, real snow tires with open noisy pattern are best. To get out of stuck, do not spin in deeper, use a grip agent first, and dig to clear a pathe when possible. (carry a plastic extendable shovel, $10.00.) Modest speed carries momentum and thus progress. slow seems good but has no enertia and also makes it easy to spin the tires. Spinning reduces traction to near zero, thus no spinning is way better. Cornering is a limitation on speed. assume a 40MPH corner is a 15mph corner on ice. Plan stopping 5 times farther down the road than dry. Never skid the tires stopping (you won't) If they skid at all let off and apply again. Practice dirt track steering when the rear breaks loos. With front drive you will go farther but spinning the tires leads to no steering at all. I have never driven where there was no snow (even when in CA, We drove skiing.) I started driving on ice a 8 on a 350U. and my first car was when I was 13. (46 chevy delux) I hope this is what you had in mind. Jim Never use clumping cat litter, only the clay based (floor Dry) stuff. Regular play sand is better than litter.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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