I don't believe it does, set them at the same depth, and seeing this is a a 2 way, only using one side at a time, would appear to be irrelevant. You would benefit from coating the moldboard, paint, tacky grease or plow coat which I think TSC sells, I just clean all the dirt off of mine, blow out the crevices with the compressed air and paint with white rustoleum spray paint, like the one in the photo, it had not been used since fall of '11, that was spring '13. I used white so it contrasts with rust if the paint fails, which has never happened yet. Soils here will scour the most rusted moldboards, thing I do not like is the pitting, they really needed to scour and polish up, as there is no doubt if you try that rusty plow in silty, loamy or the type of soil that holds moisture, sticks when wet or similar, its going to pull hard and the moldboard will build up a deposit of soil in no time, results will be poor too. Currently, it has red grease on it, last I used it finished at night, dew present, so I immediately coated it with the grease out of the gun I had with me, just a slight rust spot after almost 6 months, I prefer the paint, lasts years, just clean well, and make sure its werm enough weather to use, cold, metal and paint does not work well. Oil will settle out of the grease eventually, leaving the soap base behind.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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