I think the extra transmission was to drop the rpm from the engine to the input of the old M transmission. That way the engine can develop near full power (approx 3000-3500 rpm)while you still get realistic travel speed. I am thinking some of the old (1960s-1970s) tractor pullers used an automatic transmission to get plenty of ratio off the line and then shift up to direct drive for the rest of the pull.
to physically fit the small block into the tractor, you will need an adapter plate to mate the rear of the engine to the front of the transmission. Not being familiar with the M I don"t know what is involved. I do recall a similar swap years ago where the outer flanges on both sides of the block were cut off so it would fit between the stock frame rails. The other 3 issues: 1. gotta mate the M clutch and clutch shaft to the Small block flywheel. This probably involves at the least drilling new holes for the pressure plate and changing/boring out the pilot bearing in the rear of the crank. 2. Then you have to support the engine near the front end with mounts of some sort. 3. And you have to get the radiator hooked to the engine somehow. That will get the engine in the tractor. Then: If you want to work it, you will have to install a remote governor and work out the belt drive to it and the linkage to the carburetor. Be prepared for ssome serious fuel consumption.
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Today's Featured Article - A Cautionary Tale - by Ian Minshull. In the early 1950s my father bought an Allis Chalmers B and I used it for all the row crop work with the mangolds and potatoes, rolling and the haymaking on our farm. The farm and the Allis were sold and I have spent a lifetime working on farms throughout the country. I promised myself that one day I would own an Allis. That time event
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