I agree with jdemaris: They are not that hard if you have the book and some mechanical experience. I do not change the fuel delivery setting at all if the pump is going back on the same tractor. You do not have to move the adjusting screw at all to clean them up after a dampening ring falls apart. I do replace the governor cage with a solid one that does away with the dampening ring. The later pumps came that way.
The hardest thing is getting the cam ring screw out. That is where you need the Straight Bristol wrench. They do sell a Torx that is ground off the "fit" but I have shattered the screw with them as the Torx had tapered splines where the Bristol wrench is straight splined. I have found that if you take a punch that will fit down inside the female spline in the screw and give it a sharp blow with a hammer straight down into the screw. That seems to help knock it lose. I don't know why the factory has them so DARN tight. That screw just has two small slippers that the advance pistons push against.
Get yourself a manual and if you want I would gladly walk you through what you need to do. With a good parts break down I can walk you through the steps in 10-20 minutes.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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