There is nothing technical or fancy with the headlamp circuit on this truck, no lighting control modules or relays. The only exception would be if the truck has OEM daytime running lamps, if this truck has DRL's the low circuit simply passes through the non activated DRL relay (w/headlamp switch on). If the DRL relay is activated or stuck on you should still see the low beam lamps come on but the DRL resister would make the lamps glow dimmer than normal.
There is a main fuse (#13, 30a under hood) feeding the headlamp switch for controls, multi-function switch gets input from H/L switch, then wire leaves the multi-function switch and goes to the fuse box (under hood), this circuit branches into 2 individual wires before the fuse box and each low beam headlamp has its own fuse (#9, 10a LH & #11, 10a RH under hood). The circuits leave the fuse box on individual wires to the bulbs.
If you have a test light or volt meter then check these wires, There is a Red/Yellow wire going into multi-function switch, this should have power with the headlamp switch on. For low beams there is a Red/Black wire leaving the switch to the fuses for the bulbs. For high beams or "flash to pass" the Grey/Orange wire should have power leaving the switch. Also the #9 and #11 fuses in under hood fuse box should have power when low beams are selected.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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