Do you have access to electricity? If so, set railroad ties or large posts atleast 3 ft. deep at the corners. Steel T-post every 20ft. 3 or 4 strands of 14 ga. wire with plastic insulators. And the most powerful fence charger you can get. Gallagher is a good brand at the top-end. The MOST important thing is at least 2- 8ft long ground rods driven in at the fence charger. One at the charger and the rest every eight feet with quality clamps.
No electricity? Same corner posts, but with brace posts and H-braces in all corners. Steel T-post every 10ft, and 3 or 4 strands of barbed wire stretched VERY tight. Why you need the H-braces at the ends, 'cause you need to stretch it.
Or, if money and electricity is available, corner H braces and big posts or ties every 40 feet and 3 or 4 strands of high tensile electric. Uses tension springs and wind-up tensioners. Again, VERY tight so you need GOOD corners.
Did I mention good corners and tight?
Go cruise around Premier fencing website to see how to build good H-braces and pricing.
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Today's Featured Article - Upgrading an Oliver Super 55 Electrical System - by Dennis Hawkins. My old Oliver Super 55 has been just sitting and rusting for several years now. I really hate to see a good tractor being treated that way, but not being able to start it without a 30 minute point filing ritual every time contributed to its demise. If it would just start when I turn the key, then I would use it more often. In addition to a bad case of old age, most of the tractor's original electrical system was simply too unreliable to keep. The main focus of this page is to show how I upgr
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