That's a great looking rig! It's been a long time since I've seen a '73-'79 that wasn't rust from the glass down.
The 300 is an excellent engine. There are aftermarket parts that will wake it up. Shoot me an email if you want info on what you can do to it.
I had a '78 with a 351M. It wouldn't win any races or fuel economy awards but it was reliable as could be until the rear main seal went out at 140K. I swapped a junkyard 400 that I got for $40 and finally sold the truck when it was pushing 200K. The guy that bought it ran it up to 235K before he sold it at auction. The truck still looked great, the auctioneer sold it as original (35K)miles!
Dad had a 400 a few years later. It too was a good reliable engine. IIRC he retired that truck at 189K.
We've had some 240/300 sixes. A few things to be aware of...
watch your belt tension. Too much tension will cause the bearing to go in the water pump. Even with proper tension they went through water pumps rather quickly.
There is a drain hole or holes in the base of the fuel pump. The hole(s) are there to drain gas if the diaphragm in the pump leaks. If (when) those holes become plugged and the diaphragm leaks the gas will run into the crankcase and dilute the oil.
Kinda funny, just this morning I was thinking it would be nice to find a '67-'72 or '73-'79 F250 then I saw this topic.
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Today's Featured Article - 12-Volt Conversions for 4-Cylinder Ford 2000 & 4000 Tractors - by Tommy Duvall. After two summers of having to park my old 1964 model 4000 gas 4 cyl. on a hill just in case the 6 volt system, for whatever reason, would not crank her, I decided to try the 12 volt conversion. After some research of convert or not, I decided to go ahead, the main reason being that this tractor was a working tractor, not a show tractor (yet). I did keep everything I replaced for the day I do want to restore her to showroom condition.
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