Thanks, Alan, Powder coat is a great finish in the right application and properly applied. It is fast, low cost, and durable if the base metal is properly prepped. It is basically a ground up plastic resin. It can be polyester, Epoxy, acrylic, or a hi-bred mix. Unlike liquid coatings powder does not have much in the way of adhesion. Liquids stick to the sub-straight by nature as long as it is reasonably clean. Powders need the sub-straight made to accept the coating. Basically you need to pretreat the metal sub-straight by de-greaseing and applying a conversion coating such as iron, zinc, or zirconium phosphate or even grit blasting prior to applying the powder. Pretreatment is critical. The metal then then has the ability to hang on to the powder rather than the coating trying to hang on to the metal. Metals that are not properly treated will not hang on to the powder. It is not if it will fail, but when, because it is going to if this is not done properly. Powder is applied via electrostatic charge. The part is grounded and the powder is given a positive charge via the guns. The powder is naturally attracted to the part. After the powder is applied it is just sort of hanging there until you get in the oven. You can walk up an blow it right off. When the part is put in an oven at 350f to 500f depending on the chemistry, it will cross link and adhere. Time in the oven is critical as well. Too short and it will not properly cure and will break down and fail. Too long or too hot it will burn the pigments and color shift.
It is an easy process if done correctly and will last a very long time.
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Today's Featured Article - A Cautionary Tale - by Ian Minshull. In the early 1950s my father bought an Allis Chalmers B and I used it for all the row crop work with the mangolds and potatoes, rolling and the haymaking on our farm. The farm and the Allis were sold and I have spent a lifetime working on farms throughout the country. I promised myself that one day I would own an Allis. That time event
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