I have built a lot of roads on the farm in the last few years. Drainage is important. If you have a lot of slope, (road running up and down hills) the water will run down the road and carry the gravel to the bottom, very expensive. You need to get the water off the sides before it becomes a stream.
If you can, remove the top soil, but if it is very flat that effectively puts the road in a ditch, with no place for the water to go.
Use Geo cloth, $360 for a 360 ft roll, 12 feet wide. Worth every penny. Keeps the base in place, gravel won't sink into the mud. With gravel running $300 a 22 ton load, you want it on the road, not sinking into the ground.
I don't like #2 stone, old timers swear by it but that was before geo cloth. I use "crushed stone base" then top it with "dense grade". Don't build a road out of uniform rock, like 57's. The rocks are so uniform that they don't lock together, they roll around like marbles. I won't make that mistake again. Use something like crushed stone base, lots of diffent sizes to lock together.
I found lots of road building experts, at least they thought they were. I found out through trial and error, some expensive errors. Do it wrong and you will get to do it over, and over and over.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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