Because of the high input impedance of your meter, the test leads are effectively antennae, picking up all kinds of noise. You've probably noticed that when you connect only one lead, the display drifts all over the place and probably gives you some false reading. You need a low-impedance load across the input to short out that noise. Any normal load, such as a light bulb, will short out the noise.
Checking voltage with a load also ensures you have good connections and don't have a marginal switch. It's possible to have a solid 120 volts coming out of the wall with no load, but have that go to zero as soon as you add a load.
My guess is your light has a bad switch or other connection. The problem is gone for now, but it will be back.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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