Block up the rear and front of the frame on a very level concrete pad so that the middle is off the ground about 4 inches, so the wheels are not touching. Place a reference block under each side with a height that is effectively the height that would be straight. Use a one inch rose bud torch tip to get a triangle area 12" wide at the top and point down, to a medium red (both sides evenly heated) Heat at the most bent location. The heat will begin to sag the frame after making it appear to be worse at first. Then quench the heat with a bucket and soaked rags cooling it as quickely as possible. This shrinks the steel and reduces the bend. Repeat this exactly the same on the other side. Repeat as needed to put the stringers right. some change in temper may be the result of this treatment, but not much. I recommend putting a 10 foot piece of that channel on the top of each side of each stringer, or if too close to the tires. Put a 1/4 inch plate (Fishplate) on that side matching the length. Skip weld 3 inches and leave 3 inches on the top and bottom of each. That is the best I have, we did this to flat bed road trailers for steel hauling. 2-35,000# coils, 8 axles. They were bent the other direction, and we were putting arch into them from sagging 3 or 4 inches. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let’s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I’ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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